The Road to TK# 40773

[XavierTam]

Next is the thigh and Shine parts trimming



Before trimming



After trimming and use masking tape to assemble


Try to ware and find that they are too long. They need to be trimmed further. For example, I trimmed 4 cm on the shine.


Also need to polish the edges and then tried to wear again till felt fit.


Used a 22mm wide strip to connect the front parts


Used a 40mm wide and 0.5mm thick abs strip at the back and then put velcro tape on it.

Now tried to wear it with boot
Front view


side view


Another side view


Back view


Didn't feel good on the Velcro tape effect. The gap was too large.


The cover strip didn't have the curve profile to fit the back part of the leg.

Finally created a method to resolve it.

First got 2 pieces of ABS sheet (A4). Draw the size of the cover strip on the sheets. Bent the sheets and used strings to tie them up.


Put them into hot water for 10 minutes and then took them out. Untie the strings and cut the strips out
Here was the result


Glued it back.


This was the result after wearing it. Compared the previous one, was it better?

[XavierTam]

Next trimmed the waist belt, ammo belt and the two shoulder belt.





How to bend them was a puzzle to me. Saw a lot of methods in the forum - using heat gun, using hair dryer or even using fire from my stove. But using hot water is the best. It is easy, clean , safe and fast.

Just put them in a container and then pour hot water on them. Wait around 10 minutes.


DONE.


Next to thigh. As my thigh size is large and short, I need to make a V-shape profile. So I used a V-shape abs plate to achieve this.



Later need to put epoxy and sand and then sprayed paint it.

Then rivet the ammo belt to the right thigh.

[XavierTam]

Next glued the sniper plate on the left shin



Trimmed off the hand plates

[XavierTam]

Strapping on the hand plate was easy and simple




Snaps on the Shin. Actually this one is not necessary but I prefer to do it as I planned to hang my armor in the living room with mannequin.


Now go to the thigh. You can see the V-Shap


Snaps on the thigh. I made 4 here.


Lower two were to connect to Shin




and the upper two were to connect to the shoulder straps.


I used a clip buckle for the ease of locking and the strap length is adjustable too.


Completed both sides


With straps


Here is how it is hanged on the mannequin.

[jedi7]

Power lar!!! i used belt system for my thighs. My shins just grip my boots & stay in place.

[XavierTam]

Now front armor

Trimmed and put snap plates on the shoulder and middle part of the chest armor


Completed


Glue the straps on the AB armor and joine together with the Chest armor


Put other snap plates accordingly pn the AB armor


Front view


Also color the AB armor front buttons according to FISD standard.


Snap also the straps on two sides


Now go back to the Chest armor. Glued the two shoulder belt on the chest armor and prepared the white straps with snaps for the shoulder belt as shown here


snap the white strap on the right side

left side.




Tried with the back plate. I used 2 white elastic band to hold the un-glue end of the should belt in position. I heard this is only required for the next level EIB or Centurian

[XavierTam]

For the snaps positions, FISD forum has a lot of good info for reference. Examples as below






Now we go to the belt production first.

Ammo pack box


Make the white straps to hang the box on the canvas belt


On the Canvas belt, you need to make 5 holes. 3 holes are for snaps to hold the plastic belt


The other two holes with distance of 328mm is for two snaps to hold the canvas belt to AB armor


Made snaps on the back of ammo pack box


The length of the straps is better to have a gap of around 5mm


Completed front view with the holster


Back view


Now put the belt on the front armor


Back view


Side View

[XavierTam]

Now next is back-side armor

The original armor for the butt and kidney is in one piece. So I need to cut it into two. This is also the requirement of ANH Stunt. Also I think the advantage is for the ease of bending or even sitting.


Then put snap plates on the each of them.
On the kidney plate. the upper snap plates are for connecting to back plate. The lower 4 snap plates are for connecting to butt plate. Two snap plates on each left and right side are to connect the ab armor.


External view of kidney plate


On the butt plate. I also need to trim half inch to shorten it. Also needed to glue a strap with two snaps near the butt end side. The strap is to connect to the front of of the AB armor.




External view of Butt plate



Combine two of them together. 2 of the snaps plates on the kidney plate were not used, dummy.


Next is the back plate
Trimming of back plate


Add in the snap plates near shoulders and glued straps at the lower end.


Combined it with the lower back plate and butt plate


External look


Finally the whole front and back armor
Front view



Back view


Erected views



Internal views

[XavierTam]

Now for the Thermal Detonator. It consists of 3 parts


The kit doesn't include the Aluminum strips. I needed to buy from hardware shop. Needed to cut the right length and also filed the corners to smooth curves profile

Glued the cover on the pipe first to fix and decide the AL strip positions on two sides. Then drilled holes and riveted one end of the strip. Then bent the strip around the pipe and drill another hole and riveted another holes.



Then bent back when it nearly reached the top.


This formed the two hooks on the belt


Tried to wear




It was too high and needed to lower a little bit.

This is the completed kit




The last part of this post is how to mod the Hasbro gun to the E11 blaster.

To be Continue.............

[XavierTam]

This is the Hasbro gun I was going to mod.

. You can buy from e-bay or Amazon.

The Mod kit was from Doopy Doos


In order to open the gun. first cut out the sides of the optic scope


The cut out the gun tip


Now we can open the gun.


Took out the red color barrel


Reassembled back the gun
Positioned the mod kit parts to the correct points and checked


Because I wanted to retain the electronic sound and lighting. I re-opened the gun and put a transparent tube on the original red color barrel.


But before I closed it, I spray printed the internal first with Matt black.


Then put two paper strips to seal up the windows and put back the transparent barrel. The paper strip is to mask tape the barrel when I spray painted the whole blaster. Also remember to seal up the two sides of the optic scope and the lens a the gun tip.


Now assembled back the gun and glued the mod kit parts firmly.




Next spray a layer of premier white




The spray another layer of metal silver




Spray a layer of Flat Black



Finally spray a layer of Gun Metal



Completed. Remember to take out the paper strips trhought he window with a tweezer.

[XavierTam]

One thing - For those who want to DIY his own metal clips of the thermal detonator, you can get from me the Aluminum strip (1 inch wide and 2 feet long, 1mm thick). One strip can do 4 clips.

[jedi7]

Steve, great job! Salute you for your work! Do drop by our workshop at Des place. Its in Tampines too! You can lend a hand or two to the recruits.

[darthfroggie]

TK40773, truly I am impressed with your work. I will review it a few times before my kit arrive

[XavierTam]

TK40773, truly I am impressed with your work. I will review it a few times before my kit arrive

Take your time. It will be a long journey. Be patient !

[darthfroggie]

Steven,

Can you share where you bought your neck seal from? Thanks!